Click here for THE TRIP (continued) ___PAGE 2___

L I N K

L I N K

PHOTOS FROM THE JOURNEY SOUTH

Liz: DAY 1 (Friday, Dec. 21, 2001)   Winter begins today, as does this long awaited trip! Yes, Jim did get out of bed this morning.  The temp registered 24 degrees at the bank in Dillard, GA on the way down to Dave's. When we got there, Jim didn't find the usual teaspoon or less of oil in his drip pan. He found this: Dave & Morris told Jim he'd have to rename the BMW -- instead of "Little Red", she should be called "the Exxon Valdez".  (Ha!  Jim didn't see the humor.)  Already concerned about whether or not the bike would make the trip, he left with doubts and worries. Took some photos at Dave's as they were checking gear and getting ready to leave: Called from their first stop -- at Beaver Ruin Road & I-85, just north of Atlanta.  Morris picked up a new chain for his bike (better to be safe than sorry).  Jim said the ride from Clayton to Atlanta was surprisingly comfortable.  They all have heated grips and assorted hippo-hands.  Made all the difference! By the way,... at that stop, Dave & Morris fessed up.  The extreme oil spill found this morning in Jim's drip pan was their first practical joke.  Although they "got him", Jim was relieved. Jim called again tonight.  Had their sites on the outskirts of New Orleans, but only made Evergreen, AL.  Stopped several times today.  Dave's metal panniers didn't work.  Bought two blue coolers at WAL-MART in La Grange, GA and gave his panniers away.  Dave told Jim & Morris they'd have to "carry some of his stuff".  Right!   Mileage at this point was 367(Evergreen Ala.) miles. Jim: DAY 1 ( Friday, Dec. 21, 2001) Stop #1 Dave forgot to get gas before we left -- Stop #2 Beaver Ruin Rd., Atlanta -- Morris needed a new chain Stop #3 REI, Atlanta -- Dave needed a new money belt Stop #4 Wal-Mart, LaGrange -- Dave's bike was wiggling around like a belly dancer in a Egyptian nite                                                                    club.  His homemade sheet metal panniers had to go.  He gave them                                                                      to a kid that was scared to take them -- thought he might be accused of stealing                                                     them.                                  stop #5 (251mi.) -- Dave needed to stop once more to move his groceries around.  He's got a whole mess of                              beanie weenies and other "Dave Barr" food. stop #6 Evergreen, AL. (367mi.) -- Stopped for the nite!  I was afraid we were not going to make the Alabama line                                                     the first day. Liz: DAY 2 (Saturday, Dec. 22, 2001) Jim called just before 8:00 p.m. from Lake Charles, LA. -- 30-50 miles east of Texas .  The good news is they missed the rain.  Just started raining as they got to the motel tonight.  Otherwise, it was a pretty stressful day... especially for Jim.  Little Red didn't want to start this morning due to the low temps.  Had to ride "bitch" with Morris to breakfast.  Afterward, the BMW started on one cylinder, warmed up a bit, -- finally fired on two cylinders.  In Mobile, the ground was still white with frost.   Later, Jim's clutch blew and when Dave & Morris turned off at an exit, Jim wasn't able to make the turn and got separated from them.   He rode on from Pascagoula to New  Orleans... ahead of them -- trying to get to the BMW shop.  Pulled off at St. Bernard Street (not a great area) to use the pay phone.  The BMW dealer there was a car dealership!  The nearest BMW motorcycle shop was on toward Baton Rouge.  He had to drive through several traffic lights in New Orleans to get back on the expressway.  Said that was pretty tough with no clutch.  Later, on the Interstate, Jim hit reserve and had to stop for gas at the next exit.  He called Morris' cell phone & let the fellows know where he was and where he was heading.  They suggested he wait on them.  He waited for quite a while.  Several folks saw him and stopped to asked what they could do to help.  Jim learned that the bike shop was one exit back, so he got back on the road and took his bike in for repair.  Dave & Morris found him at the shop after lunch.  (Jim missed his lunch - had too much on his mind.)  Turns out that some clip had come off his clutch and had to be replaced, along with an actuating rod (whatever that is).  Also had to replaced the spark plug wires and set the carbs (I think Jim said), as the timing was way off!  (Hope all these details are correct.  Tonight's call, on the cell phone, was skipping a bit...)   They're all tired - Jim's exhausted!  Glad to have a warm room.  Said they were eating in the room tonight.  Not room service -- just a selection of canned things they had packed away: beanie wienies in hot sauce, fish/sardines... ummm, ummm, good.   More good news -- looks like the rain will pass through the area during the night.  Maybe they can have a dry start tomorrow. Jim: Day 2 (Saturday, Dec. 22, 2001)           Today was my day to delay things!  My bike would not start right away.  It finally started after breakfast and after much coaxing.  Got on down the road and ran out of gas. (Forgot to turn my petcocks off of reserve at the last fill up.) The REI 1 litre gas bottle saved me much walking, as Dave and Morris were in front and rode on ahead. I got off at the next exit for gas and started back down I-65 toward Mobile.  Morris was waiting on the side of the road and said Dave had gone back to look for me - rode up about that time and we started off again.            I lost my clutch around Pascagoula, Mississippi and had to get going by using the starter in first gear.  Headed for the BMW dealer listed in Dave's BMW book as being in New Orleans.           Took I-10 into New Orleans (instead of I-12 around).  Got separated from Dave and Morris when they stopped to take a break.  I couldn't stop because the difficulty of starting up again.  Got off of I-10 on St. Bernard St. -- the wrong neighborhood -- and called the dealership to find out they sold cars only.  What a blow!  They said I would have to go to Baton Rouge to the dealership there.  Now my only problem was how to drive through traffic in New Orleans with no clutch.           Had to stop and get gas in some small Louisiana town in the middle of a swamp.  That was fun, too. Called Morris' cell phone from there and he said they would be right along. T hey were in New Orleans.  I waited for them on the side of I-10 outside of Baton Rouge for an hour and when they didn't show I went on to the BMW dealer, Hebert Cycles Inc.  Turned out that "Touring Sport", the BMW dealership in Greenville, S.C., the ones that had done the work on my bike before the trip, had totally screwed up everything they touched. They had used the old, outdated clip and clutch rod and had retarded the timing so much the bike was very hard to start.  After the folks in Baton Rouge fixed what Greenville screwed up, the bike ran good.           Dave and Morris showed up at the shop as the mechanic was finishing up my bike.  Turns out that they had stopped for lunch!  I guess they had a lot of confidence in my ability to take care of myself.           We headed west -- on down I-10 -- to a stopping place for the night, in Lake Charles, LA. Liz: DAY 3 (Sunday, Dec. 23, 2001) Jim's son, Dylan, and I drove down to south GA to visit his two sisters and their families for the holidays.  Jim called me there tonight.  Had a good start today and the bikes were all running fine... Jim will tell you about the Texas "road races" when he gets back!  Glad to say that Texas welcomed them with warmth and sunshine.  They stopped by the King's Ranch for photos, too.  Made Brownsville, TX today -- about 550 miles.  Plan to stay there -at the Pecan Tree Motel- for two nights.  Will spend the day tomorrow making preparations to cross the border. (Trip is at 1300+ miles, so far.) Jim: Day 3 (Sunday, Dec.23, 2001)           Bike started up fine.  What a relief !!  Crossed into Texas today. Had high clear blue skies and cool weather -- great riding weather!!  Stopped in Beaumont for gas and talked to Gator on the cell phone.  He is already back home.  Pulled in at a gate to the King's ranch on Hwy 77.  Had a rest break and took some pix.   Made it to Brownsville, TX today. Back on our schedule (three days to Brownsville).           Had a pissing contest on I-10.  22 year old "Little Red" sucked both Morris and Dave's bikes up her exaust pipe.  Trust that will end the discussion. Liz: DAY 4 (Monday, Dec. 24, 2001) Christmas Eve! Jim called and talked to me and all of his kids tonight.  He, Dave and Morris were able to get their visas, vehicle permits, and insurance today.  Jim had to replace his kick stand.  They all went to Wal-Mart.  Developed film and picked up last minute items.  Dave told Ruth that they bought storage boxes to use for some of their cold weather items.  Will leave them at the motel 'til they pass back through Brownsville on the way home.  Mailed photos, too.  (I'll add the pics to this page as soon as they get to NC.)  Jim said they exchanged small Christmas gifts (of sorts) tonight, including locks from Morris for Jim's Action Packer trunk.  They plan to take 4-5 days to get to the Guatamalan border, will try to keep in touch -- probably through e-mail, and will look for calling cards that will allow them to call the states.  We'll see!   Message from Morris:  If anybody wants to buy HIDs, or other lighting, contact Ricky Stator:  stator@adnc.com. The fellows passed a LONG-DISTANCE RIDER coming out of Mexico on Christmas Eve... Recognize him? Jim: DAY 4 (Monday, Dec. 24, 2001)           Christmas Eve in Brownsville!!  We rode across the Mexican border to the customs offices to get our visas and permits to take the motos(as the Central Americans call them) into Old Mexico.           I'd warned Morris not to forget his credit card, as you need it to get the moto sticker. I forgot mine!!!!  Had to ride back across the border to the motel and get it, so I had to pay the bridge toll twice each way -- dummy.           The motel owner's brother was kind enough to do a washing for us so we would start tomorrow with clean clothes.  He also agreed to store our cold weather clothes 'til we come back through.           One more night in Texas..., then Mexico.   We were all anticipating tomorrow's crossing and would be glad to "start" our trip through Central America. Liz: DAY 5 (Tuesday, Dec. 25, 2001)   Merry Christmas! Dylan and I drove back home from south GA today.  No word from the fellows.  Night before last, though, Jim said they planned to drive 250-300 miles on Christmas day -- and stop for the night in Tampico, Mexico - a coastal city on the Gulf of Mexico.  Hope they took more pics!  Felis Navidad, Two Dogs! Note:  May be several days between updates while the boys are in Central America. Jim: DAY 5 (Tuesday, Dec. 25, 2001)           Started out before daylight on Christmas morning.  Cold crisp morning -- knew it was gonna be a good day.  The border was almost deserted, no lines at all.  We blew right through.           The roads to Tampico were, for the most part, pretty good.  Stopped at the "Tropic of Cancer" (the latitude line 23 1/2 degrees north of the equator, the northern most point of the sun's direct light) for a photo opp and I dropped my bike when the front end washed out in some really deep, loose gravel.  Caught a ton of shit from Morris and Dave.  A large mountain off to our south and west, Picacho, was 1,245 meters tall.  It was neat with the cloud sitting right on top of it. (See pics.) .           Got a motel in Manuel, MX, north of Tampico, for the night.  Found it to be an electrican's nightmare with bare wires in the shower/toilet and wires running in all directions from the open fuse box. (See pics.) Taking a shower would be chancy. Tacos for supper -- surprise!!!!!! Liz: DAY 6 (Wednesday, Dec. 26, 2001) I talked to Ruth today.  Dave mentioned to her the other night that they were going to probably reach Veracruz, Mexico today.  It's also a coastal city. Jim: DAY 6 (Wednesday, Dec. 26, 2001)           Rained all night and still messy this morning.  Riding style has changed from vacation to race day. Made it through Tampico and to Villa Rica.           Roads from Tampico to Veracruz were terrible -- rougher than anything you can imagine.  Really hard on a bike.  Anything less than red loctite is a waste of time on this road. .           Don't know if it was on the way to Veracruz or not, but we stopped at a roadside fruit stand and got some of the best tangerines I ever put in my mouth.  Dave and I both got a full "stick" (about 24 count) for 8 pesos (about .90 cents US).  Morris had a "cocos frios" -- a green coconut with a straw to drink the milk.  I had the guy with the machette split it and showed Morris how to eat the "spoon meat".  He thought it was great until I told him it was a really good laxitive. (See photos.)           Stopped for the night in Villa Rica, I think. . Liz: DAY 7 (Thursday, Dec. 27, 2001) Think Tapachula, Mexico, at the southern tip of Mexico, will be tonight's stopping point.  Will probably cross into Guatemala tomorrow. Jim: DAY 7(Thursday, Dec.27,2001)           Rode into Veracruz on the morning of the 27th in the rain.  We stopped at a McDonald's and Morris and I went in for a Egg Mcmuffin/Mexicana (eggs cooked with peppers). The coffee was very good, too, as opposed to their usual Nescafe instant.  Dave stayed outside and ate a can of cold pork and beans ala Dave Barr.  Came in later though -- for an apple pie, I think.           We passed a Wal-Mart on our way through Veracruz and made a stop for Morris to go shopping for replacement glasses.  And Dave, being Dave, had to shop for some more Beanie Weenies. .           Our leader and pathfinder, the Chief of the Wherethefugarewe tribe (Dave) made a serious error in direction and we wound up going several hundred kilometers out of our way, through Cordoba, Orizaba and Oaxaca.  In all fairness to Dave, it was a beautiful ride.  The scenery was magnificent, except for the valley that was heavily industrialized and so polluted with smokestack emmissions it looked like heavy fog.  The turn was not a total loss.           We had a short stop for Morris to replace a bolt that had vibrated out of one of his HID lights. The roads here will vibrate your teeth loose.           Stayed the night in a small town south of Oaxaca, where we stopped for gas and a cop told us there was a hotel in town.  Was four flights up to our room, but hey, who's counting.  It was a bed.           Morris and I had some of the best tacos of the trip down the street at a place called "Taco Brown".  I guess a guy named Brown owned it.  Dave stayed outside and had a can of pork and beans. Liz: DAY 8 (Friday, Dec. 28, 2001)  Starting the second week of the trip.  Hope the border crossing went smoothly.  It will take time to stop and pass through each of the CUSTOMS check points.  Know these fellows had rather be riding !!!  The time taken for each of these stops, of course, will determine how much riding time they'll have & how far along they'll get. According to the report from www.weather.com, Guatemala City, Guatemala was expecting showers today.  Think they had light showers.  Maybe our boys will get ahead of possible thunder storms moving into the area tomorrow. I went to the AAA in Asheville today and picked up a road map of Central America -- one like Jim & Dave each have with them.  Wanted to have it here so I can get an idea of their travels.  (Will make any corrections when we hear from them again.) Jim: DAY 8 (Friday, Dec. 28, 2001)           Got  "on the road again" and the race started all over.  Later, Dave and Morris were stopped at a restaurant on the side of the road. When I caught up, I pulled over and joined them for breakfast -- Carne Asada and Casadias (sp.?).           Later on down the road, I caught up yet again and was told not to even get off my bike. This flew all over me and I just took off on my own, figuring I was in reality riding on my own anyway and it was safer not trying to keep up with them. They never got a sniff of my rear until I got delayed at a border crossing in Costa Rica (5 countries later).           If you like thrill rides, you've got to try Hwy 190 from Oaxaca to Tehuantepec. It's like 170 kilometers of Deal's Gap -- dodging taxis, tractor trailers and very aggressive Mexicans in junkers. Gets your heart beating for sure.  Exhilarating, but at the same time, a little daunting.           The scenery there was breathtaking, very rugged mountains with cactus, rocks and brush.  Makes you have a lot of respect for the people who settled there.  They had to be tough as a lighter knot, or running from the law.  I would love to spend some time there with a 4x5 view camera. Anyone who knows my past history would find that a strange statment indeed.           Ran into a traffic jam of tremendous proportions today. Traffic was stopped dead in the highway with people walking around in the HOT sun.  I didn't figure on waiting, so I began to weave my way to the front -- curious, as well as impatient.  The halted cars and trucks were about 4 kilometers long and 2/3rds of the way down was a line of large motor homes, one with a couple sitting beside it in lawn chairs. They looked American, so I ask them what was going on.  They spoke English and told me that there had been an election in the next town down the road and the guy who was declared the winner got less votes than his opponent.  This had highly pissed off the townspeople.  The accepted way of protesting around here was to block all traffic on the main highway. The road was MAYBE going to open back up at 6:00pm.  As it was only 1:00pm, I was not crazy about waiting around in the hot sun for 5 hours.  I thanked them for the info and rode on to the front of the line and was stopped by boulders, logs and brush piled on a bridge over a creek.  A tractor trailer was turned across the road on the other side of the bridge, so there was no way a car could cross.           I attracted a large group of Mexican men and boys (25 or so) that wanted to look at the moto. Showed them on my map -- where I had come from and where I was headed.  One who could speak some broken English told me, "Et ess posseble for jew to cross."  I told him that I did not want to piss off the already mad looking crowd of men on the other side of the bridge. He really didn't understand, so I made a shooting motion with my index finger and thumb and said, "Pow, pow."  He said something in Spanish and the whole crowd died laughing.  This made them my buddies and two of them motioned for me to follow them.  They moved the logs and brush and rolled the boulders aside so I could angle across the bridge and around the nose of the truck.  None of the protesters said a thing, so I said, "ADIOS," and hauled ass down the road.           Heard later that Dave tried to cross and they came after him with a stick.  I can understand that!! Dave has a unique way of pissing people off.  He and Morris had to ford the 3' deep creek.           Had some good roads from around Juchitan to Huxtila where I settled for the night.  A good stretch of the way was an "AUTO PISTA", a toll road (the tolls are high as hell, but it sure beats the "LIBRE", free roads).  While on the auto pista, running at 70mph, a buzzard flew into me. He hit the fairing head on, made a hell of a whack, and also hit my left calf on the way past -- stung!!!  I figured I would find blood and cracked paint on the fairing and a mess on my leg.  I looked later and could find no evidence of our encounter.  If he ain't a dead buzzard, he's sure got a hell of a headache!!!           The motel in Huxtila is of the hot sheet variety, new and very clean.  It's a place where Mexican men bring their mistresses for fun and relaxation.  You drive through a curtain and into a garage where a curtain or door is closed behind you and no one can tell you are there.  Neat, huh?           An eventful and satisfying, but tiring day. Liz: DAY 9 (Saturday, Dec. 29, 2001) Ruth got a short call from Dave just after noon today; he was paying some guy for the minutes.  Said he & Morris got separated from Jim again.   Something about an oil change... not sure of the details.  Dave & Morris ran into a "transportation strike" at one of the border crossings.  Couldn't cross the bridge.  When Dave tried, someone came after him with a stick!  Before he was hurt... someone explained that the only way to get across the border was to ford the river.  They did it -- through water that was about three feet deep.  Later in the day, Dave & Morris described Jim & his bike to some folks who thought that Jim had already passed by, so he's possibly ahead of them.  Wishing and hoping... these fellows will all get back together again -- SOON!!! Dave and Morris were expecting to stop somewhere in El Salvador tonight.   Got some photos from Jim in this afternoon's mail!  Added them in where they seemed to fit.   Scroll back up to DAY 1 thru DAY 4 to find them. Have received a few messages on the site's GUEST BOOK and thru e-mails and phone calls from several of the TWO DOGS and other friends since this trip began.  Good to hear from you all.  Thanks to everyone for your support for Jim, Dave and Morris on their trip and for me.  It really means a lot!  -- UPDATE --  Gator will have a hernia operation next week.  (We have you in our prayers, Gator.  Please follow the doctor's orders afterward and have a smooth and quick recovery!!) Jim: DAY 9 (Saturday, Dec. 29, 2001)           Headed down MEX 200 to Tapachula and on to Ciudad Hidalgo and the border crossing into Guatemala.           The Mexico side exit, or "salida" was not bad, but the Guatemala entrance side, or "entrada" was a pain in the ass.  Little did I know what awaited me further down the line!!           Made it!!  In Guatemala and amazed by the highly painted busses and the amount of black smoke they belch.  All the busses are painted in wild colors and are named.  One that impressed me was "ESMARELDA".  The paint included the windshield, all but a 6"or 8" horizontal strip, like a tank driver's slit.  Their air horns must have been taken off of boats -- loud just don't cover it.  If you do not move out of their way they will get on the horn and it will blow you off the road!!!!!           Fields of sugar cane and bananas, and smoke, and potholes, and smoke, and potholes -- pretty country when you could see it.  I don't think I have ever been so dirty after a bike ride.           The Guatemala / El Salvador border was a nightmare!!! The officals and the kids that are there to        "help" you through the mess are crooks just waiting on a gringo who does not speak Spanish.  I got screwed at every border except Mex/US and Panama/Costa Rica.  My own fault I guess.  Should have taken some courses in Spanish.           Crossed into El Salvador and really found out what potholes were all about, I thought.  Roads were pretty good except for them.  Got through the mountains and when the roads got a little better, I upped the speed some-- wrong thing to do.  I hit a pothole as big as a child's wading pool and went into a high speed wobble.  Was busy as hell for the next 10 seconds -- scared the shit outta me.           Was near 8:00pm (It's really dumb to ride after dark in Central America), so I took the first motel/hotel I saw.  Boy, what a mistake.  Had a bar with loud music and a swimming pool full of screaming kids, an 8'x10' room with a cold water shower and a floor fan that did not work.  Turned out that neither the shower nor sink had any water.  Thought the room could not get any worse.  It did, when someone rented the room next door.  He evidently didn't think the Spanish music from the bar was loud enough, so he backed his car up to the room and turned on his radio full blast.  I just put in my earplugs and pretended like I was at a motorcycle rally.           Big nite at the HUMP MOTEL and all the humpees brought their children.           Got up the next morning and was covered up in bedbug bites -- at least a hundred or so -- ugh!!!!!!!!! Liz: DAY 10 (Sunday, Dec. 30, 2001) Definitely a full moon day... I had a rough morning - worried about Jim traveling on his own.  Got an e-mail from him (late morning) from San Miguel, El Salvador.  So good to hear from Jim!  Relieved a bit!  Apparently, he & Dave weren't agreeing on things yesterday, so Jim took off by himself.  (I still hope they meet back up and get back together.)  Jim said he's planning to make it to Panama, though he's riding "in pretty much constant pain."  (He was hurting before he left.  Probably needs the same surgery as Gator!)  Said he'd find a phone & call me if he gets in real trouble.  He's got lots to share, as he is recording every day.  Spent the night last night in a HOT SHEET motel.  Weather's hot! Jim plans to cross through Honduras and head on into Nicaragua today.  Jim just called (7:15 p.m., EST) from Choluteca, Honduras.  Didn't get as far as he'd hoped.  Had good weather with high temps reaching 95 degrees or better.  Stopped for the night at a pretty good motel.  We were on a three minute pre-paid card call -- had to talk fast!  Traveling the biggest road in the area, the Pan American Highway, but Jim said it is poor with lots of bad potholes.  Stopped around dark, as he didn't want to travel at night.    Melena, Dave's daughter, called around 7:30.  Dave just called home, too.  Another paying-by-the-minutes call!  He and Morris were held up for a few minutes at the border crossing this afternoon -- no problems, though... just a time consuming check.  They made it across, into Honduras, and stopped for the night.  The folks at this last crossing told Dave & Morris that Jim had already come through -- they're probably only 90 or so miles behind Jim at this point. Jim: DAY 10 (Sunday, Dec. 30, 2001)           Heading to the Honduras border when I ran up on a filling station that was clean and comfortable. Had a USA style hot dog and a cold coke, all while sitting at a clean table in a air conditioned place. To say I was surprised was an understatement.           The border crossing turned out to be a hot (high 90's), time consuming (4-5 hours), money consuming (I ain't saying), ordeal(screwing).           I just thought I had seen some bad roads.  Honduras is a real shithole. The main highways here are 35mph roads at best. You cannot let your concentration slip for a second. Morris said later that He was standing up on his pegs swerving from one side of the road to the other trying to miss the potholes!!!!!!           Stopped at the only motel in this part of Honduras. It's on the "RIO CHOLUTECA"(river) by a torn up road and bridge.  Damn good motel -- lush plantings and a very good restaurant and bar, The complete opposite of everything else inthe area.  $60.00 a night (US).  High, but it was the only one.  The ceiling was made of Honduran mahogany and was wildly grained. Beautiful.           The maid service did my laundry. Nice.           Coming into the town of Nacome, Honduras there was a sign for Hwy. CA1 to the right.  Made the turn and 100 yards down the road was a dirt berm about three feet high, all the way across the road with kids playing on it -- no way for my road bike to cross.  Went back and continued straight and came to an intersection with some cops sitting around.  I pointed to my right and asked, "Choluteca?" They all pointed right and said "Si".  Took off and saw where the bypass road came back in to the highway.  Evidently, the citizens of the town of Nacome did not take kindly to bypassing their town center and took it upon themselves to remedy the situation -- and to hell with the state.  I think they may be on to something!!           Met two guys on KLR Kawasakis at the border today -- Frank Tabor and his buddy, Dale.  They are headed for TIERRA DEL FUEGO, as far south as you can go in South America.  Good luck to them.           60 klicks to the Nicaragua border.  Should be there early morning. Liz: DAY 11 (Monday, Dec. 31, 2001)  Let's celebrate safely this New Year's Eve!! Jim sent e-mail this morning while he was waiting for his clothes to get dry.  Though promised at 8:00am (Central Time), he got,"Not ready, wait please." He was still there at 8:30.  Wants to make the 60 mile drive to the border crossing into Nicaragua as early as he can.  Expecting possible delays there.  Will send another e-mail as soon as he can get to a big town with internet services. Talked to Ruth again this morning.  She told me that Dave wants to get through Nicaragua today.  He and Morris have about 150kilometers to the Nicaraguan border crossing, then they'll have about a 300-350k ride to the border into Costa Rica.  Dave wants to spend some time New Year's Day (tomorrow) with some folks he & Ruth know in Costa Rica -- not sure of the town.  He & Morris will have to make good time on the road and at the borders.  No word from the fellows this evening.  I'm hoping they are in some city where they can enjoy a Latin American New Year's celebration - the people, fireworks, and all! Jim: DAY 11 (Monday,Dec. 31, 2001)           The border crossing into Nicragua was --- I DON'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT IT ---           Managua was a big town sitting on a huge lake, "Lago de Managua" and had good roads and good road signs.  Slipped through the town like shit through a goose.           [At this point I am almost at sensory overload with all the sights and impressions, so you will have to forgive me for not relating more.  I will, as the memories come back.]           Stopped for the night in Jinotepe at a whambam motel -- much nicer than the bedbug palace.  It had a  TV, air conditioner and water.  For once, I did the sensible thing and stopped before dark.Had a sealed plastic bag on the nightstand.  In it was a Lufa scrubber and a "Black Cat" rubber that had "made in Eufala, Alabama" on it.  A rubber and a scrubber.  Ain't that a hoot.           Cooled my hot coke by putting it in the cold exaust of the AC. Don't laugh, it works!!!!           Got to brag on the roads throughout Nicaragua.  They were very good.  Must have an aggressive road department.           It was New Years Eve and I was too tired to do anything about it.  Heard some fireworks, but by 12:00 I'd be deep in the arms of Morpheus. Liz: DAY12 (Tuesday, Jan. 1, 2002)  Ano Nuevo!  (Happy New Year!)     Awoke to 16 degrees here in NC this morning.  Glad the temps are nice and warm (for now) for our travelers.  No word today.  Nada.  Do hope they had a pleasant January 1. Jim: DAY 12 (Tuesday, Jan. 1,2002)           Headed on down Hwy. 2 to Penas Blancas, the border town with Costa Rica . Made it to the border before they opened for the day and had to wait around for an hour and a half or so.  They finally arrived and opened. While I was standing in line, I happened to turn around and there was Dave. He hadn't said a word.  First time I had seen him and Morris in 5 countries.           Met a nice young couple at the border crossing. The girl was from Chapel Hill, NC and they were doing a walking tour of Central America -- a little more ambitious treck than I care to tackle. She saw my tag and hollered, "Hey, North Carolina!"  We swapped info and wished each other good luck.           I waited aound for Morris and Dave to finish up the paper work and while they were putting on their helmets, I headed down the road slowly, waiting for them to catch up.  They blew past me like I was backing up.  Well, it wasn't my day for a race, so I just ambled along.  Caught a fleeting glimpse of Dave standing in front of a Burger King in Liberia, Costa Rica.  Only traffic light in 400 miles.  Since I was already past and was not hungry, I kept on riding, never knowing that Morris' front hub was giving trouble.  Had to have had something to do with the terrible roads we had been over.           Made it through San Jose and over the "CERRO DE LA MUERTE", which translates as " THE MOUNTAIN OF DEATH", 11345' elevation.   It was spectacular - the absolute best scenery yet; the highlight of the trip. The ride over the mountain was worth the entire trip. I can't say enough about it.  I don't have the words to describe it as it deserves.  It was spooky at times -- with the clouds, the outside lane that had collapsed (and was somewhere off down the mountainside), the inside lane landslides, and the lack of oxygen on the top.  I was literally breathless and spellbound by its beauty.  The best part was that I got to see it twice -- going and coming back!!!           Found a very nice motel in a town outside of San Isidro -- Perez Zeledon, the Hotel Del Sur.  They let me park my moto under the front canopy, inside the locked and guarded gates. A very nice restaurant was connected to the hotel.  I had a poolside table and one of the best dinners of the whole trip. (Liked it so well that I had the same thing on my return trip --Cosada con pesca y limon (I think), -- fried fish, fried bananas, rice, black beans, a salad and a good local beer (burp). The Costa Rican lemons are deep, dark green with an inside that looks like an orange, but it tastes like a cross between a lemon, a lime and an orange.  They are great!!!!!           Met a nice guy there, Peter Trost, and his wife.  He is a teacher of gifted students at the German School in San Jose.  He helped me order supper and we visited for a while.   Interesting fellow.           Had a great night's sleep and an early start toward Panama. Liz: DAY 13 (Wednesday, Jan. 2, 2002) Dave called home tonight; Melena & Ruth called to relay the lastest news.  Dave said that the road was SO bad in Nicaragua that youngsters, 9-10 years old, were filling the potholes with manure, dirt... and asking the travelers for money in return for their efforts.  Because of some official at one of the borders pulling a "slick one", Dave & Morris had to sleep on concrete slabs at the crossing while waiting to get through.  Also, had one night in one of the "whoretels" where they had to share a bed in a room with mirrors on the ceiling and the walls.  When awakened, at around 4:30 a.m. by the moans & groans in the neighboring room, they decided to hit the road early.  Due to the bad roads, Dave has bent something on his bike and Morris' tire is wobbling.  Will try to get repairs done tomorrow.  Crossed paths with Jim at one of the borders, but later Jim continued on ahead of them.  Morris got a speeding ticket that amounted to about $35.00 (US) for going 90-95k/?mph.  Don't know how Dave got away with no ticket, as he was keeping up with Morris.  No news from Jim.   Sure would like to hear from him.  All three of our riders have made it into Coasta Rica.  They need to appreciate and enjoy the wonderful weather they're having.                                                       Here's a map showing the road through Costa Rica and into Panama: -- Having our first snowfall of the season tonight in north GA & western NC.  Melena said there's at least an inch of snow on the ground in Clayton.  It's moved up to Franklin, too -- falling pretty good tonight.  It's beautiful!  Our low was at 18 degrees this morning, with the high reaching only 31.  Just hope this winter weather pattern changes for the better in a few weeks when Jim, Dave and Morris head back home. When the snow got heavier tonight, some fellows ran a truck in the ditch in front of Dave & Ruth's house.  Melena got a chain and she & her brother helped pull the truck out.  Is the full moon lingering behind these snow clouds? Jim: DAY 13 (Wednesday, Jan. 2, 2002)           Neat ride through Panama -- sugar cane, bananas and best of all were the pineapple fields. When I hit the miles of  fields the smell was almost overpowering, like you were inside a ripe pineapple. Made my mouth water.  Had to stop and take a few pix.  Views were great.           Made it into Panama City right at nightfall.  Got off at the wrong exit and wound up in Old Town Panama City.  It was raining and the streets were brick pavers(with a raised middle and street car tracks), slick as eel shit and very narrow.  People were thick and no one could speak any English to tell me how the hell to get out of there -- or to a hotel.  Finally found a guy that could speak some English and he told me how to negotiate the one way streets and get back to New Town.  Hired a taxi for $3 US to lead me to a hotel. Was $22.00 US a night and very clean and secure.  I could not find it again if my life depended on it. Liz: DAY 14 (Thursday, Jan. 3, 2002) Please take time to read message in the Guest Book, here on the web site today, left by David, from Clayton (known to all of us as Dave, or Deputy Dog).  He & Morris had one lay over in Liberia, Costa Rica (check Dave's spelling) and are having to lay over for a second day in San Jose, Costa Rica today.  Morris is still having trouble with his front wheel bearings -- maybe he can get them fixed or replaced. Jim should have crossed the border into Panama, by now.  If so, he's back in the Eastern Time Zone... oh, but so far from home!  Looks to be 200+ miles between most of the major cities on the lone Panama road.  Hope gas, food and lodging are readily available.  Who knows where or when Jim will be able to find an internet connection?                 Here's the L-O-N-E road through Panama (black & white dotted lines are gravel roads):   Dave called Ruth tonight from San Jose, Costa Rica.  Morris' brother, Mike, helped line things up for Morris' wheel repair.  Parts are being shipped and should get to San Jose this coming Monday.  Dave and Morris will stay at the same motel 'til they get the bike fixed.  Said there are places in the San Jose area they can check out in the meantime. This unexpected delay has changed their plans.  Will probably turn toward home once Morris' bike is running okay and take their time coming back to GA.  Haven't heard from Jim since his New Year's Eve a.m. e-mail.  Will let you know how he's doing and where he is as soon as I hear!!!! Melena talked to Gator today.  His surgery has been postponed 'til next week. Jim: DAY 14 (Thursday, Jan. 3, 2002)           Paid a cabbie to lead me out of Panama City to the road to Juan Diaz and Hwy 1.           Finally on the last road south.  Darien, here I come.  Been expecting Dave and Morris to come blasting by me at any time.  Went through Tocumen, Chepo and Canitas to a large steel bridge and a shack that seemed to be a bus stop of some sort.  Was stopped by a federal policeman and questioned as to what I was doing there.  I satisfied his curiosity and spotted some teenagers that looked out of place.  Asked if anyone could speak English and about a dozen spoke up at the same time.  They were missionary kids from all over the US.  Their group leader, a guy in his 30's came over and I told him I was trying to make it to the Darien. ------ He told me to relax, I WAS THERE. This was the Darien.  He took my picture in front of the bus that was headed back the way I had come.  It was the only sign that said Darien anywhere.  Rode across the bridge to where the pavement stops and the dirt begins.  Took a few pictures by the monument and crossed back over to ask the feaseability of continuing on down the dirt road to where it turned into a pig trail.  Was told, in no uncertain terms, NOT to try it on my bike. Said the road quickly turned to two ruts and was quite rough. Said it was going to rain that afternoon and I would not get back out.  Being of sound mind(I think), I opted not to try it.                   " I  MADE IT" Now, I gotta get back home.           Something I feel compeled to add is the fact that the leader of the group of church kids told me as I was leaving the Darien, that they would pray for me.   I felt a presence all the way home.           Had a good ride back toward Panama City and stopped in the city at a bank to turn some of my worthless travelers checks into real money. Was more difficult than I thought it would be. I had to pull out every piece of identification I had - passport, Interamerican drivers license, NC drivers license, birth certificate, and visa card. Still would not cash but $250.00 worth. Think it may have been the way I looked after 15 days on the road?????? Nah. Could be the reason, though, that I was not the epitome of sartorial splendor and probably did not smell like a bed of roses.  Since Panama uses the US dollar, I got good old US cash.           Found my way to the "Bridge of the Americas" that separates the Harbor of Balboa from the Bay of Panama. Stopped on the northern side at a pull off for a photo opp, even though it was raining like pouring piss out of a boot. The place was deserted. I took a few pix of my moto with the Panama Canal and the Miraflores Locks in the background. Wouldn't you know it, my camera picked that time to screw up!! I came away with one poor picture.           Beat a hasty trail back to just outside the town of Penonome, Panama to the Hotel Rivera for the nite. Got checked in and all my stuff carried to the room and a good hot shower. Ready for supper, the hotel restaurant looked ok, so I had the Arroz de Camarone( shrimp/rice/veg combo). Very good. Washed it all down with a couple of Tecates.           Nite Nite Liz: DAY 15 (Friday, Jan. 4, 2002) Today the third week of this trip begins.  GREAT NEWS!  Got a brief e-mail from Jim at about 5:30pm --- He made it!!!!!!!!!!!!! Within the next hour we exchanged several e-mails... so nice to be in touch again!   (He also had time to read the e-mails I sent to him this week - probably 10-15 in all.) Jim made it to the Darien.  He will post those pics and many more when he gets home.  After he made it to Panama City, Panama, he continued to Juan Diaz, Tocumen, Chepo and Canitas.  The road was paved past Canitas to the bridge, about 135k south of Panama City(or 70-80 miles I think), then was dirt.  He made it to the start of the dirt road.  Met some English speaking missionary kids who told him that the dirt road was very bad and that if it rained (as it does every day), Jim would have a hard time of it.  He was smart enough to opt not to try it on a bike designed for the road.  Got rained on all the way down, but said it was the best part of his trip... was magnificent, with over 10,000 foot elevations and the scenery down to Darien was awesome!  Jim's staying tonight at the Hotel Del Sur outside of San Isidro, Costa Rica.  'Bout $30 US, but has hot water and good food.  Stayed there on his way down, too.  Planning to have fish, again, with lemon.  (He's made good time!  And he's on his way back!) Plans to start across the mountains toward San Jose (only about 150 miles) tomorrow at about 8:00am.  Supposed to be clear that time of day.  Jim has the phone number and room number of the motel where Dave & Morris are staying, but not the name of the motel.  Will try to call them tonight and will try to find them tomorrow in San Jose.  Hopes to ride with them on the way home.     Met a guy at this motel in San Isidro, when he was there earlier in the week -- Herr Professor Peter Trost, a teacher at the German school in San Jose.  The professor invited Jim to stop on his way back by and visit for a couple of days with he & his wife.  Jim has the professor's phone number and e-mail address and will try to contact him tomorrow, too.  Maybe he can help Jim get to a doctor to possibly get a truss to "hold his guts in place" 'til he gets back home.  Then, Jim may join Gator in the hospital.  Jim's still dictating a lot to the recorder.  Thinks he's too long winded, but that it should be an interesting listen.  Still taking pictures, too.   Said the border crossing to Panama was a piece of cake-- cost $1.00 US.  Thinks the rest of the way back will be a bitch.  Dreading the other border crossings on the way back and the terrible roads in Honduras, but says it's all downhill now. Glad that Jim's safe and has a comfortable place for the night!  So glad! ----Hey!  Just checked the Guest Book and found a message from Dave & Morris!---- Said that the parts for Morris' moto were sent out from Kawasaki yesterday.  Today they went in search of a moto shop to change the front hub and rear sprocket on Mo's bike.  Found one in San Jose.  Then took a short (100 mile) ride -- Dave on the BMW and Morris on "Squeaky".  Have enough bearings for a small ride tomorrow up to see the volcano.  They say you can see both the Pacific and the Gulf of Mexico from there on a clear day.  Since they can't send e-mail from the motel, they'll be using the Guest Book for messages.  It will probably be Monday before FedEx drops off Morris' parts.  They have a nice room, a pool and hot water "shooting up their asses" in the jacuzzi! ----Good to get the news. Jim: DAY 15 (Friday, Jan. 4, 2002)           Got a good early start this morning, up before daylight and loading the bike for the run up to San Isidro, Costa Rica. Back to the Hotel Del Sur and their good fish dinner.           Stopped in Santiago, Panama for breakfast at McDonalds. Sausage biscuit,coffee,OJ and greasy, deep fried potato something that I didn't eat.           It's 218 kilometers to the Costa Rican border and somewhere between  here and there I need to find a place on the side of the road to change my oil... Got it done. The old oil looked a little weak in the knees. New 20/50 Castrol is in place and humming.           Pulled over for a rest break at what I thought was a deserted spot and a sweet little voice said, "Hola," and a lot more that I didn't understand. A young girl was hanging out clothes on a line near the road. I had pulled off in a driveway of sorts. I glanced up the path and here came a older man with what looked like a 2' long machette in his hand. I don't think he meant me any harm, but I just grinned and said, "ADIOS."           Roads from Santigo to Frontera, the border, were bad. Had to be on the alert all the time.           Gas stop. Got a "frio coka" here and was it ever a chore. The attendant had to open a lock on a steel cage, remove a chain, open the box and remove the Coke, then lock it all back up. Didn't ask for the peanuts I wanted. They were under lock and key, too !!!!  Three coolers, two cracker and chip boxes and an ice container all inside their own steeI cages and all locked down tight!!  I really need to pay attention to the way the natives here view their fellow countrymen. If they don't trust them, why should I??????           Back at the Hotel Del Sur, I called Dave and Morris in San Jose. Will try to get up with them tomorrow. Liz: DAY 16 (Saturday, Jan.5, 2002) Got MORE news!  While Dave and Morris were taking a day ride to see the volcano near San Jose, Costa Rica (where they've been for the past few days), Jim road from San Isidro up to meet them in San Jose.  It was a memorable day for them all. Jim left a message in the Guest Book today and we were able to send e-mails back and forth for 30 minutes.  (Jim was using the internet in San Jose, Costa Rica, but had a poor keyboard -- the letters were badly worn.)  Later, I was able to call him, so I have lots to tell you about our three riders.  Jim got sunburned yesterday coming from Panama... told us to enjoy the snow and he'd show his tan when he got back home.  On this morning's ride, Jim came over the MOUNTAIN again, the Cerro de la Muerto, which translates as "Mountain of Death" (11,345 ft. elevation).  Spooked him both directions -- going south earlier this week and coming back to San Jose today.  Today he ran through clouds so thick that he couldn't see 30 feet ahead and also climbed up to where he was riding above the clouds.  Was magnificent.  Said the temp dropped at least 40 degrees during the climb and there was not much oxygen up there.  Somewhere along the road today, Jim hit another pothole.  The bike rode alright on into San Jose, but the bent  front, cast aluminum, snowflake rim.  Will have to go to the local BMW shop for a check Monday. When he got to San Jose, Jim located the motel (Apartoel El Sesteo) where Dave & Morris have a room, but they were away on their day ride.  Jim went to the Hospital Clinica Biblica in the city/town and got checked out.  Found out that he doesn't have a hernia after all -- thank goodness -- but he does epididymides (inflammation).  Was prescribed some pills which will hopefully clear it all up.  Said Dr. Diaz Juan Daniel Enrique, the Sonografia de Testiculos Muestra (sounds fun, huh?) and the pills cost $100 US.  Will be well worth if it works. Jim didn't have a key to the motel room (#215) and no other room was available, so he waited for Dave & Morris to return.  When I called their room tonight (9:30EST), Jim picked up the phone. (Oh, baby, oh!) FINALLY, OUR BOYS ARE ALL TOGETHER AGAIN!                       Told Jim that today's Dave's birthday.  He turned to Dave with, "Happy Birthday to you," to discover, by Dave's expression that Dave hadn't mentioned it to Morris!  (They'll get him...)   Ruth tried earlier in the day to call Dave to say "happy birthday", but couldn't get a call to go through.   Also, the boys had been discussing what Jim could use for a truss ---- I had shared QBall's suggestion of the top portion of a pair of "control top" panti hose.  Jim, in desperation, had thought of using duct tape, 'til Dave reminded him of how painful it would be to remove the tape -- too much like a bikini wax!!!   The most recent remedy was Jim's sister's suggestion of a pair of spandex men's swimming trunks (the kind bicycle riders wear) -- hey, might just work.  Before we got off the phone, I got to hear about the day Dave and Morris had today.  Got a few more details from Ruth, as Dave called her tonight, too.  As I said before, Dave and Morris drove up to see the nearby volcano (Parque Nacional Volcan Irazu), one of Costa Rica's scenic National Parks.  Well... on the way back, they went off road for some adventure.  Dave dropped the bike twice on this trip -- once when his feet couldn't touch the ground...  and later, while crossing a river (sound familiar?), Dave dropped his bike again and it went completely under the water.  Pulling the bike out, Dave pulled a possible hamstring -- thought he'd broken his leg.  Was hurting pretty badly at first.  He even put a splint on it.  Their 100 mile round trip took 12 hours.  Though Dave was hurting and didn't think he could ride his bike, he started walking.  Morris had a tough trip back, too.  On their return trip, Morris took turns driving both bikes back down the mountain to San Jose.  He kinda step-laddered them down... first driving his bike for a distance, then walking back up the hill to Dave's bike and driving it down beyond his own bike, then walking back up the hill to drive his bike down further than Dave's ... ... ...   Finally Dave was able to stop a couple in a jeep and pay them to give him a ride down the mountain and to take Morris back up for the other bike.  They made it back to the motel.  Dave and Morris were already in bed, resting and feeling much better (just pooped), when I talked to Jim.  Gives a different meaning to the term "day ride" doesn't it?  These boys are creating memories... Dave told Ruth that he would be around the motel all day tomorrow.  That jacuzzi would feel pretty good!  Maybe all our fellows will rest before they ride again. Morris is still looking for the Kawasaki parts to arrive via FedEx Monday, Jan. 7th.  NOTE:  The calling card, purchased at SAM'S, is super.  Calls made within the US costs only 4 cents per minute.  That's a much better rate than we have on our phone at home. You can add minutes to the card by calling a 24 hour Customer Service, which allows you to continue using the same card number instead of getting a new card when your minutes are used up.  And although the rates vary a bit depending where in the world you call, the out-of-the-country costs are very reasonable, too.  Cost me about 25 cents per minute to talk to Jim in Costa Rica tonight. Jim: DAY 16 (Saturday, Jan 5, 2002)           Started back across the "Mountain of Death" for the second time, am really anticipating the clear skies and wild views. Tough to pull off the road here, not many spots level enough. No scenic lookouts like the Blue Ridge Parkway.           Huge ferns with fronds 3' across and at least 4' long & plants with round leaves 3' in diameter. All the plants our wives pay big money for at home grow wild here. Most amazing.           Rode through clouds to the top. Got to bring Liz back here, maybe next Christmas vacation.           Made it to the El Sesteo hotel where Morris and Dave were staying a little after noon today, they were gone on their "day ride".  Headed up to the local McDonalds to get a bite to eat.           Called a taxi to take me to a Farmicia where I might find a truss to hold me together 'til I get home. No luck. Three Farmicas later, I wound up at the Clinica Biblica seeing a doctor. He said I didn't have a hernia, just an inflammation. Bullshit -- your guts don't fall out from an inflammation. Gave me some pills. Right!!!!  Got a wide ace bandage to hold the parts in.           Dave and Morris came dragging in after dark looking total worn out . (See description by Liz, above.) Liz: DAY 17  (Sunday, Jan. 6, 2002) Note: If you read yesterday's update, please take a minute to reread the part about the "day ride".  Ruth got a few more details last night. Got e-mails from Jim at about 12:45 today -- said we had 30 minutes.  Both his computer and mine were very slow, so we didn't get to chat much and the time was gone before we knew it!  This afternoon, I added the tidbits of news I got from Ruth and Jim and a map of the San Jose area to yesterday's update. Jim and Morris have a new name for Dave: "enano gordo cojo" which translates as "short, fat cripple".  (Surely, it'll only be a temporary name.)    All three of the fellows walked up the street to a department store today and bought shoulder bags to hold all their stuff.  Glad they were all feeling good enough to get out for the walk.  Jim plans to go to the butterfly park this afternoon to see all the live butterflies.  Maybe he will take more photos.  Said that Morris fell while getting off of his bike at one of the border crossings this past week and the locals just hooted.  Said Morris should have taken a bow! News via e-mails again this evening with Jim:  - Jim, Dave and Morris went to the butterfly farm/park this afternoon.  Was neat.  They wondered around town for a while and Jim was pleased to find some molas -- cloth craft from the area, a type of layered applique, for me.  Downtown San Jose was interesting.  Most places were closed today, but there were a lot of people walking around. - There is a puddle of oil under Jim's bike... said he will have to live with it.  Earlier in the week, in Panama, he changed the oil on the side of the road. - Told me a story about stopping to take a picture while he was in Panama.  Thought the place was deserted.  Out of nowhere, a girl (Panamanian?) spoke to him.  She was hanging clothes out to dry.  Then some old man started toward Jim with a machete -- looked about 2 feet long.  Doesn't think the old man meant any harm, but Jim said "adios" anyway. - He told Dave about Ruth's suggestion of Dave and Morris driving down at least to the border of Panama.  Dave said they might try it, if they get the bike fixed.  - Jim just took a good, semi hot shower before sitting down at the computer.  - Morris is doing laundry and was in the tepid hot tub.  - The motel room only has one bed.  Jim's on his cot with his sleeping bag.  Said DD and Mo are bed buddies.  Ruth and I both made calls to San Jose.  Have a little more info to share: - All the fellows did quite a bit of walking today.  Dave's leg is sore, but he's getting around okay.  Not sure if he's tried to get back on his bike or not. - If Morris' bike gets fixed tomorrow, he and Dave may head south, over the mountain and to the border crossing into Panama.  Jim said it would take them one day to drive down and a second day to drive back -- the mountain is quite a climb.  I asked Jim if he'd ride with them.  He said that he'd stay at the motel in San Jose and wait for them to get back... he's not really interested in riding south.  - Morris' bike parts are due tomorrow in San Jose, but Dave said they may not arrive until Wednesday.  If they are delayed that long, he & Morris will skip the drive down to Panama and all the fellows will head toward home. - Jim still plans to take his bike to the BMW shop there tomorrow to check several things, too - the front rim plus some maintenance.  He will send e-mail sometime tomorrow to let me know if the bikes are repaired and ready for the road. - Sounded like they all had a good day today. Jim: DAY 17 (Sunday, Jan. 6, 2002)           Today was a day to relax. Dave's trying to exercise his leg some, wants to get in the tepid tub to soak it. Morris is recovering from having walked up a mountain twice and I am just resting.           We walked to McDonalds for some breakfast and to the nearby department store( armed guards on every door) to get our film developed and get some shoulder bags to tote our stuff around. No film developed on Sunday, sorry. Got to wash some clothes anyway. Liz: DAY 18 (Monday, Jan. 7, 2002) I got a short e-mail from Jim early this afternoon.  They're getting prepared to travel. - Dave & Jim took their bikes downtown San Jose to the BMW shop.  They are having their wheels smoothed out where they bent them hitting potholes.  Supposed to be ready by 1:00pm.  - Morris' bike parts had not come yet.  (Maybe later in the day???) - Dave soaked in the hot(tepid) tub to try to get soreness out of his leg.  - Jim's a bit anxious to be back on the road.  He wants to get the dreaded border crossings behind him.  - Morris is saving local coins. - Jim's having some film developed today.  He won't mail them, as he thinks they would take longer in the mail than the trip home will take.  Ruth called Dave at 8:00pm -- no new news from her, yet. Then I called Jim at 8:30pm -- had a good talk and have a story to share: The BMW place in San Jose has a unique set up.  When Jim and Dave took their bikes in this a.m. for rim repairs, there was a chauffeur, of sorts, who took them, along with the removed rims, through town; dropped the rims off at another place to have them worked on; and took Jim and Dave back to their hotel.  Said things would be ready by 1:00pm...  Well, at 1:00, the chauffer, with the repaired rims already in tow, picked them up at the hotel and took them back to the BMW shop.  They stayed around the shop for a while, paying up and checking other things out.  Cost Jim 35,000 colones (about $100.00US) and Dave about 51,000 colones(a bit more).  Jim said they did a fine job of smoothing the dents out of his snowflake rim.  Was pretty late when they got on the bikes to head back to the motel and it had started raining.  Locals say it doesn't rain there in January - yeah, sure!  Anyway, due to the heavy clouds and time of day, it was getting dark, too.  Jim had on his regular glasses and no face shield - said he couldn't see good at all in the rain and the darkness didn't help.  They were in heavy city traffic and Dave took the lead.  Dave led Jim around in a large circle at least twice, ["Dave's Tour Guide Service": The best tour of the city.  If you miss something the first time, don't worry, we'll be back.]  It had turned really dark when they stopped at a station, but couldn't understand the language very well... Jim showed Dave a road sign that showed where to turn toward Sabana, their part of town, but Dave went straight ... ... for 5-10 miles, then stopped again.  A girl pointed them in a general direction,... again, the language was a problem.  Finally, Dave recognized a crooked building - one he'd seen in the distance from the window at McDonald's.  They were separated in traffic for a while, as Jim was still having trouble seeing.  Following Dave up a hill, then down a steep hill, Jim could catch a glimpse of Dave's tail light every now and then in the traffic ahead.  Finally, McDonald's golden arches were in sight.  They knew then that they had made it back to the area and would be able to find the hotel.  It was quite a ride.                                                                            This is the only photo I could find on the web of downtown San Jose. Jim: DAY 18 (Monday, Jan. 7, 2002)           Dave and I rode to the local BMW shop where he had arranged to have our wheels(rims) straightned out, both had big dents from potholes. Treated first class, but we paid for it (as the fellow at the KLM shop said we would). They did a nice job though. Cost me 35018.56 Colones, which translates out as about $95.00 US. Not an inconsiderable sum for two quarts of oil(no filter) and banging out a dent. Was glad to get it done at any price though, as it was worring me.           After the dent was out I could see the broken sidewall bulging out. The wheel  and tire took a hell of a hit. I'm sold on Metzler tires after what I have seen, over 10,000 miles and the rear still has good tread on it.           Dave allowed as to how, since it was a tube type, he thought it would hold out OK for the trip home, while Morris said he would get a new one. None available -- that made up my mind for me.           Got my film developed while waiting on the rims to be fixed. One pix of the Panama Canal turned out and thank goodness the pix I took at the Darien Gap weren't among the casualties.           Headed back to the hotel right at dusk, in the rain. Ask anyone -- it dosen't rain in Costa Rica in January!!!!!!! Right. Dave led me on a tour(accidental--got lost) of downtown San Jose. Saw many of the same sights three times.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Happy to have my wheel fixed and to be dry.

THE PRELIMS Jim: Dec 5, 2001 Well, the preliminary checks are not going along as smoothly as we would wish. Things aren't fitting zactly right & have to be modified or moved around in some way.  Possum has been trying to modify a rear rack to fit his 22 year old BMW (no small task) and install crash bars (oops, engine guards).  The crash bars were a royal pain in the ass.  Before you can install them, you have to remove the lower fairings.  Before you can do that, you have to remove the exaust system -- ALL OF IT.  Once you get the fairings off, you can mark and cut the holes for the crash bars to pass through. The fairing is fiberglass, so Possum was covered up in white dust from the grinding and sanding (not realizing that this stuff itched).  He had a miserable two days of trying to pull his skin off.  Finally, he's ready to take the BMW("Little Red") for a test ride.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Talked to Gator this a.m. and he is headed to the health dept. to get his Hepatitis A , Typhoid, and Tetanus/ Diphtheria shots and 9 Chloroquinine pills (at $5.00 each).  Asked, "Will it HURT?"  We will meet up with him in Brownsville, Texas on the 29th.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    We are considering hiring an AMBULANCE as a chase car.  With all the stuff we've bought: new tents, sleeping bags, cots, riding suits, LED flashlights, pepper spray, polar fleece liners, extra parts, tools, tires, boots, waterproof bags, etc. (and D.D. is even considering a GPS --last year he didn't even have a map),  we could have paid for first class airline tickets and deluxe accommodations at a resort hotel.  Maybe next year. (???) Forgot to mention earlier: Possum discovered that gasoline engines do not run well on diesel fuel.  Make sure you're at the right pump -- dummy. Jim: Dec 8, 2001 The testing continues -- Could D.D. hire on as a test dummy for BMW??  He's got to work on his short term memory.  He's back to the sheet metal panniers instead of the soft bags.  We won't know the final version until Dec. 26th. Possum got a "new to him" rear rack on after much modification, then mounted a Rubbermaid ACTION PACKER box onto it --- kinda looks like a K-mart "blue light special", function over form - an Airhead canon: www.airheads.org.  His center stand fell off during a test run.  Takes special German spacers and bolt, naturally!!  Found the right bolt at the local Ace Hardware store, but still had to get the spacer from BMW.  More waiting.  The well made, waterproof Helen Twowheels' bags seem to be the trick for keeping my stuff dry ----  www.helen2wheels.com.  First hand report on Morris' HID lights ---- they  WILL  burn your eyes out!!!!!! No report from Gator.  Have to assume he charmed the pants off of the health department nurse, as usual, and got the "no hurt" shots. What do you think about someone (Lizzard) who would take offense and not believe the six pack of condoms were for covering the end of the summer sausage we don't eat at one sitting and/or for emergency repairs to my carburetors? Jim: Dec 10, 2001 D.D. has begun to talk about leaving early -- maybe the 21st of December.  Christmas in Old Mexico...  What a hoot!  I just checked the weather prognosticators for that day and they are calling for a low of 15 degrees here that morning.  Gonna freeze my ass off before we get far enough south.  Wired in heated grips today, maybe that will help some. Jim: Dec  15, 2001 Next Friday(Dec. 21) is the day!!! -- DD still has no saddle bags. He's sure going to look funny with all his shit in a paper sack. ---UPDATE--- Just talked to DD, says he got the metal panniers installed earlier today, checked 'em out and they function well. Now he can carry the kitchen sink. Says he's all packed and ready to go except for his shaving kit!                                                                         Gator called DD on the 13th saying he was 70 miles east of Brownsville, TX and would call when he found a camping spot. Possum is trying to fit an old (free) Yamaha tank bag to his Beemer and is having no luck --  cussing a lot though -- Jim: Dec. 16, 2001 SON OF A ^$$^#@^*  CO*%##%  S$$*(i(*  %#@#%+  SORRY A#$%@*& Jim: Dec. 18, 2001 The tank bag is on. (Ask Jim about his cut finger.)  Finallygot everything else packed, too.  Out for another test run today.  Back early...  bike's running rough - (one cylinder).  MORE CUSSING!!!!!!!  ---- While loading it onto the trailer, to haul it over to Greenville, he dropped it and broke the fairing --shit-shit-shit.  Already using duct tape and he's not even in Mexico yet!!!!!!!!  Headed to Greenville BMW to the GURU for what's happnin' now ---- synch the carbs, tweak the idle, and buy a new BMW battery.  We're back in business. I think this bike hates me!!!  Wonder if I can find a short Mexican mechanic that wants to ride "bitch". Dave talked to Gator tonight.  Comes to pass Gator's not going to be able to make the trip.  Health problems.  We will miss his good cheer and smiling face. Jim: Dec 20, 2001 24 degrees in the morning!!!!!   You've GOT to be kidding me.  NO; unh uh; no way.  I ain't getting outta bed.  I didn't get this old by trying to commit suicide by pop-cycle.

THE DARIEN GAP OR BUST                2001

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" THE CHRONICLES OF THE WILD BUNCH"                                              OR   "THOSE  GREYHEADED OLD BASTARDS SURE CAN RIDE"

THE   MEXICO   ES-PE-CI-AL

GATOR

DD aka CURLY

Temporarily closed for repair-- just wait 'til next year!

POSSUM  aka  LARRY

POCO  ROJO   (Little Red)

WET DREAM

THE  JOURNEY

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"IT IS BETTER TO DIE ON YOUR FEET THAN TO LIVE ON YOUR KNEES."    - Emiliano Zapata

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8000+ MILES

THE PRELIMS Jim: Dec 5, 2001 Well, the preliminary checks are not going along as smoothly as we would wish. Things aren't fitting zactly right & have to be modified or moved around in some way.  Possum has been trying to modify a rear rack to fit his 22 year old BMW (no small task) and install crash bars (oops, engine guards).  The crash bars were a royal pain in the ass.  Before you can install them, you have to remove the lower fairings.  Before you can do that, you have to remove the exaust system -- ALL OF IT.  Once you get the fairings off, you can mark and cut the holes for the crash bars to pass through. The fairing is fiberglass, so Possum was covered up in white dust from the grinding and sanding (not realizing that this stuff itched).  He had a miserable two days of trying to pull his skin off.  Finally, he's ready to take the BMW("Little Red") for a test ride.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Talked to Gator this a.m. and he is headed to the health dept. to get his Hepatitis A , Typhoid, and Tetanus/ Diphtheria shots and 9 Chloroquinine pills (at $5.00 each).  Asked, "Will it HURT?"  We will meet up with him in Brownsville, Texas on the 29th.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    We are considering hiring an AMBULANCE as a chase car.  With all the stuff we've bought: new tents, sleeping bags, cots, riding suits, LED flashlights, pepper spray, polar fleece liners, extra parts, tools, tires, boots, waterproof bags, etc. (and D.D. is even considering a GPS --last year he didn't even have a map),  we could have paid for first class airline tickets and deluxe accommodations at a resort hotel.  Maybe next year. (???) Forgot to mention earlier: Possum discovered that gasoline engines do not run well on diesel fuel.  Make sure you're at the right pump -- dummy. Jim: Dec 8, 2001 The testing continues -- Could D.D. hire on as a test dummy for BMW??  He's got to work on his short term memory.  He's back to the sheet metal panniers instead of the soft bags.  We won't know the final version until Dec. 26th. Possum got a "new to him" rear rack on after much modification, then mounted a Rubbermaid ACTION PACKER box onto it --- kinda looks like a K-mart "blue light special", function over form - an Airhead canon: www.airheads.org.  His center stand fell off during a test run.  Takes special German spacers and bolt, naturally!!  Found the right bolt at the local Ace Hardware store, but still had to get the spacer from BMW.  More waiting.  The well made, waterproof Helen Twowheels' bags seem to be the trick for keeping my stuff dry ----  www.helen2wheels.com.  First hand report on Morris' HID lights ---- they  WILL  burn your eyes out!!!!!! No report from Gator.  Have to assume he charmed the pants off of the health department nurse, as usual, and got the "no hurt" shots. What do you think about someone (Lizzard) who would take offense and not believe the six pack of condoms were for covering the end of the summer sausage we don't eat at one sitting and/or for emergency repairs to my carburetors? Jim: Dec 10, 2001 D.D. has begun to talk about leaving early -- maybe the 21st of December.  Christmas in Old Mexico...  What a hoot!  I just checked the weather prognosticators for that day and they are calling for a low of 15 degrees here that morning.  Gonna freeze my ass off before we get far enough south.  Wired in heated grips today, maybe that will help some. Jim: Dec  15, 2001 Next Friday(Dec. 21) is the day!!! -- DD still has no saddle bags. He's sure going to look funny with all his shit in a paper sack. ---UPDATE--- Just talked to DD, says he got the metal panniers installed earlier today, checked 'em out and they function well. Now he can carry the kitchen sink. Says he's all packed and ready to go except for his shaving kit!                                                                         Gator called DD on the 13th saying he was 70 miles east of Brownsville, TX and would call when he found a camping spot. Possum is trying to fit an old (free) Yamaha tank bag to his Beemer and is having no luck --  cussing a lot though -- Jim: Dec. 16, 2001 SON OF A ^$$^#@^*  CO*%##%  S$$*(i(*  %#@#%+  SORRY A#$%@*& Jim: Dec. 18, 2001 The tank bag is on. (Ask Jim about his cut finger.)  Finallygot everything else packed, too.  Out for another test run today.  Back early...  bike's running rough - (one cylinder).  MORE CUSSING!!!!!!!  ---- While loading it onto the trailer, to haul it over to Greenville, he dropped it and broke the fairing --shit-shit-shit.  Already using duct tape and he's not even in Mexico yet!!!!!!!!  Headed to Greenville BMW to the GURU for what's happnin' now ---- synch the carbs, tweak the idle, and buy a new BMW battery.  We're back in business. I think this bike hates me!!!  Wonder if I can find a short Mexican mechanic that wants to ride "bitch". Dave talked to Gator tonight.  Comes to pass Gator's not going to be able to make the trip.  Health problems.  We will miss his good cheer and smiling face. Jim: Dec 20, 2001 24 degrees in the morning!!!!!   You've GOT to be kidding me.  NO; unh uh; no way.  I ain't getting outta bed.  I didn't get this old by trying to commit suicide by pop-cycle.

THE DARIEN GAP

MORRIS aka MOE

THE FLAGS

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UNITED STATES                  MEXICO                     GUATAMALA              EL SALVADOR   OF AMERICA

HONDURAS                  NICARAGUA                 COSTA RICA                     PANAMA

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See any similarities?

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THE TRIP                                             Liz's DAILY LOG during the trip.                       + Jim's THE REST OF THE STORY (under construction).

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Liz: DAY 1 (Friday, Dec. 21, 2001)   Winter begins today, as does this long awaited trip! Yes, Jim did get out of bed this morning.  The temp registered 24 degrees at the bank in Dillard, GA on the way down to Dave's. When we got there, Jim didn't find the usual teaspoon or less of oil in his drip pan. He found this: Dave & Morris told Jim he'd have to rename the BMW -- instead of "Little Red", she should be called "the Exxon Valdez".  (Ha!  Jim didn't see the humor.)  Already concerned about whether or not the bike would make the trip, he left with doubts and worries. Took some photos at Dave's as they were checking gear and getting ready to leave: Called from their first stop -- at Beaver Ruin Road & I-85, just north of Atlanta.  Morris picked up a new chain for his bike (better to be safe than sorry).  Jim said the ride from Clayton to Atlanta was surprisingly comfortable.  They all have heated grips and assorted hippo-hands.  Made all the difference! By the way,... at that stop, Dave & Morris fessed up.  The extreme oil spill found this morning in Jim's drip pan was their first practical joke.  Although they "got him", Jim was relieved. Jim called again tonight.  Had their sites on the outskirts of New Orleans, but only made Evergreen, AL.  Stopped several times today.  Dave's metal panniers didn't work.  Bought two blue coolers at WAL-MART in La Grange, GA and gave his panniers away.  Dave told Jim & Morris they'd have to "carry some of his stuff".  Right!   Mileage at this point was 367(Evergreen Ala.) miles. Jim: DAY 1 ( Friday, Dec. 21, 2001) Stop #1 Dave forgot to get gas before we left -- Stop #2 Beaver Ruin Rd., Atlanta -- Morris needed a new chain Stop #3 REI, Atlanta -- Dave needed a new money belt Stop #4 Wal-Mart, LaGrange -- Dave's bike was wiggling around like a belly dancer in a Egyptian nite                                                                    club.  His homemade sheet metal panniers had to go.  He gave them                                                                      to a kid that was scared to take them -- thought he might be accused of stealing                                                     them.                                  stop #5 (251mi.) -- Dave needed to stop once more to move his groceries around.  He's got a whole mess of                              beanie weenies and other "Dave Barr" food. stop #6 Evergreen, AL. (367mi.) -- Stopped for the nite!  I was afraid we were not going to make the Alabama line                                                     the first day. Liz: DAY 2 (Saturday, Dec. 22, 2001) Jim called just before 8:00 p.m. from Lake Charles, LA. -- 30-50 miles east of Texas .  The good news is they missed the rain.  Just started raining as they got to the motel tonight.  Otherwise, it was a pretty stressful day... especially for Jim.  Little Red didn't want to start this morning due to the low temps.  Had to ride "bitch" with Morris to breakfast.  Afterward, the BMW started on one cylinder, warmed up a bit, -- finally fired on two cylinders.  In Mobile, the ground was still white with frost.   Later, Jim's clutch blew and when Dave & Morris turned off at an exit, Jim wasn't able to make the turn and got separated from them.   He rode on from Pascagoula to New  Orleans... ahead of them -- trying to get to the BMW shop.  Pulled off at St. Bernard Street (not a great area) to use the pay phone.  The BMW dealer there was a car dealership!  The nearest BMW motorcycle shop was on toward Baton Rouge.  He had to drive through several traffic lights in New Orleans to get back on the expressway.  Said that was pretty tough with no clutch.  Later, on the Interstate, Jim hit reserve and had to stop for gas at the next exit.  He called Morris' cell phone & let the fellows know where he was and where he was heading.  They suggested he wait on them.  He waited for quite a while.  Several folks saw him and stopped to asked what they could do to help.  Jim learned that the bike shop was one exit back, so he got back on the road and took his bike in for repair.  Dave & Morris found him at the shop after lunch.  (Jim missed his lunch - had too much on his mind.)  Turns out that some clip had come off his clutch and had to be replaced, along with an actuating rod (whatever that is).  Also had to replaced the spark plug wires and set the carbs (I think Jim said), as the timing was way off!  (Hope all these details are correct.  Tonight's call, on the cell phone, was skipping a bit...)   They're all tired - Jim's exhausted!  Glad to have a warm room.  Said they were eating in the room tonight.  Not room service -- just a selection of canned things they had packed away: beanie wienies in hot sauce, fish/sardines... ummm, ummm, good.   More good news -- looks like the rain will pass through the area during the night.  Maybe they can have a dry start tomorrow. Jim: Day 2 (Saturday, Dec. 22, 2001)           Today was my day to delay things!  My bike would not start right away.  It finally started after breakfast and after much coaxing.  Got on down the road and ran out of gas. (Forgot to turn my petcocks off of reserve at the last fill up.) The REI 1 litre gas bottle saved me much walking, as Dave and Morris were in front and rode on ahead. I got off at the next exit for gas and started back down I-65 toward Mobile.  Morris was waiting on the side of the road and said Dave had gone back to look for me - rode up about that time and we started off again.            I lost my clutch around Pascagoula, Mississippi and had to get going by using the starter in first gear.  Headed for the BMW dealer listed in Dave's BMW book as being in New Orleans.           Took I-10 into New Orleans (instead of I-12 around).  Got separated from Dave and Morris when they stopped to take a break.  I couldn't stop because the difficulty of starting up again.  Got off of I-10 on St. Bernard St. -- the wrong neighborhood -- and called the dealership to find out they sold cars only.  What a blow!  They said I would have to go to Baton Rouge to the dealership there.  Now my only problem was how to drive through traffic in New Orleans with no clutch.           Had to stop and get gas in some small Louisiana town in the middle of a swamp.  That was fun, too. Called Morris' cell phone from there and he said they would be right along. T hey were in New Orleans.  I waited for them on the side of I-10 outside of Baton Rouge for an hour and when they didn't show I went on to the BMW dealer, Hebert Cycles Inc.  Turned out that "Touring Sport", the BMW dealership in Greenville, S.C., the ones that had done the work on my bike before the trip, had totally screwed up everything they touched. They had used the old, outdated clip and clutch rod and had retarded the timing so much the bike was very hard to start.  After the folks in Baton Rouge fixed what Greenville screwed up, the bike ran good.           Dave and Morris showed up at the shop as the mechanic was finishing up my bike.  Turns out that they had stopped for lunch!  I guess they had a lot of confidence in my ability to take care of myself.           We headed west -- on down I-10 -- to a stopping place for the night, in Lake Charles, LA. Liz: DAY 3 (Sunday, Dec. 23, 2001) Jim's son, Dylan, and I drove down to south GA to visit his two sisters and their families for the holidays.  Jim called me there tonight.  Had a good start today and the bikes were all running fine... Jim will tell you about the Texas "road races" when he gets back!  Glad to say that Texas welcomed them with warmth and sunshine.  They stopped by the King's Ranch for photos, too.  Made Brownsville, TX today -- about 550 miles.  Plan to stay there -at the Pecan Tree Motel- for two nights.  Will spend the day tomorrow making preparations to cross the border. (Trip is at 1300+ miles, so far.) Jim: Day 3 (Sunday, Dec.23, 2001)           Bike started up fine.  What a relief !!  Crossed into Texas today. Had high clear blue skies and cool weather -- great riding weather!!  Stopped in Beaumont for gas and talked to Gator on the cell phone.  He is already back home.  Pulled in at a gate to the King's ranch on Hwy 77.  Had a rest break and took some pix.   Made it to Brownsville, TX today. Back on our schedule (three days to Brownsville).           Had a pissing contest on I-10.  22 year old "Little Red" sucked both Morris and Dave's bikes up her exaust pipe.  Trust that will end the discussion. Liz: DAY 4 (Monday, Dec. 24, 2001) Christmas Eve! Jim called and talked to me and all of his kids tonight.  He, Dave and Morris were able to get their visas, vehicle permits, and insurance today.  Jim had to replace his kick stand.  They all went to Wal-Mart.  Developed film and picked up last minute items.  Dave told Ruth that they bought storage boxes to use for some of their cold weather items.  Will leave them at the motel 'til they pass back through Brownsville on the way home.  Mailed photos, too.  (I'll add the pics to this page as soon as they get to NC.)  Jim said they exchanged small Christmas gifts (of sorts) tonight, including locks from Morris for Jim's Action Packer trunk.  They plan to take 4-5 days to get to the Guatamalan border, will try to keep in touch -- probably through e-mail, and will look for calling cards that will allow them to call the states.  We'll see!   Message from Morris:  If anybody wants to buy HIDs, or other lighting, contact Ricky Stator:  stator@adnc.com. The fellows passed a LONG-DISTANCE RIDER coming out of Mexico on Christmas Eve... Recognize him? Jim: DAY 4 (Monday, Dec. 24, 2001)           Christmas Eve in Brownsville!!  We rode across the Mexican border to the customs offices to get our visas and permits to take the motos(as the Central Americans call them) into Old Mexico.           I'd warned Morris not to forget his credit card, as you need it to get the moto sticker. I forgot mine!!!!  Had to ride back across the border to the motel and get it, so I had to pay the bridge toll twice each way -- dummy.           The motel owner's brother was kind enough to do a washing for us so we would start tomorrow with clean clothes.  He also agreed to store our cold weather clothes 'til we come back through.           One more night in Texas..., then Mexico.   We were all anticipating tomorrow's crossing and would be glad to "start" our trip through Central America. Liz: DAY 5 (Tuesday, Dec. 25, 2001)   Merry Christmas! Dylan and I drove back home from south GA today.  No word from the fellows.  Night before last, though, Jim said they planned to drive 250-300 miles on Christmas day -- and stop for the night in Tampico, Mexico - a coastal city on the Gulf of Mexico.  Hope they took more pics!  Felis Navidad, Two Dogs! Note:  May be several days between updates while the boys are in Central America. Jim: DAY 5 (Tuesday, Dec. 25, 2001)           Started out before daylight on Christmas morning.  Cold crisp morning -- knew it was gonna be a good day.  The border was almost deserted, no lines at all.  We blew right through.           The roads to Tampico were, for the most part, pretty good.  Stopped at the "Tropic of Cancer" (the latitude line 23 1/2 degrees north of the equator, the northern most point of the sun's direct light) for a photo opp and I dropped my bike when the front end washed out in some really deep, loose gravel.  Caught a ton of shit from Morris and Dave.  A large mountain off to our south and west, Picacho, was 1,245 meters tall.  It was neat with the cloud sitting right on top of it. (See pics.) .           Got a motel in Manuel, MX, north of Tampico, for the night.  Found it to be an electrican's nightmare with bare wires in the shower/toilet and wires running in all directions from the open fuse box. (See pics.) Taking a shower would be chancy. Tacos for supper -- surprise!!!!!! Liz: DAY 6 (Wednesday, Dec. 26, 2001) I talked to Ruth today.  Dave mentioned to her the other night that they were going to probably reach Veracruz, Mexico today.  It's also a coastal city. Jim: DAY 6 (Wednesday, Dec. 26, 2001)           Rained all night and still messy this morning.  Riding style has changed from vacation to race day. Made it through Tampico and to Villa Rica.           Roads from Tampico to Veracruz were terrible -- rougher than anything you can imagine.  Really hard on a bike.  Anything less than red loctite is a waste of time on this road. .           Don't know if it was on the way to Veracruz or not, but we stopped at a roadside fruit stand and got some of the best tangerines I ever put in my mouth.  Dave and I both got a full "stick" (about 24 count) for 8 pesos (about .90 cents US).  Morris had a "cocos frios" -- a green coconut with a straw to drink the milk.  I had the guy with the machette split it and showed Morris how to eat the "spoon meat".  He thought it was great until I told him it was a really good laxitive. (See photos.)           Stopped for the night in Villa Rica, I think. . Liz: DAY 7 (Thursday, Dec. 27, 2001) Think Tapachula, Mexico, at the southern tip of Mexico, will be tonight's stopping point.  Will probably cross into Guatemala tomorrow. Jim: DAY 7(Thursday, Dec.27,2001)           Rode into Veracruz on the morning of the 27th in the rain.  We stopped at a McDonald's and Morris and I went in for a Egg Mcmuffin/Mexicana (eggs cooked with peppers). The coffee was very good, too, as opposed to their usual Nescafe instant.  Dave stayed outside and ate a can of cold pork and beans ala Dave Barr.  Came in later though -- for an apple pie, I think.           We passed a Wal-Mart on our way through Veracruz and made a stop for Morris to go shopping for replacement glasses.  And Dave, being Dave, had to shop for some more Beanie Weenies. .           Our leader and pathfinder, the Chief of the Wherethefugarewe tribe (Dave) made a serious error in direction and we wound up going several hundred kilometers out of our way, through Cordoba, Orizaba and Oaxaca.  In all fairness to Dave, it was a beautiful ride.  The scenery was magnificent, except for the valley that was heavily industrialized and so polluted with smokestack emmissions it looked like heavy fog.  The turn was not a total loss.           We had a short stop for Morris to replace a bolt that had vibrated out of one of his HID lights. The roads here will vibrate your teeth loose.           Stayed the night in a small town south of Oaxaca, where we stopped for gas and a cop told us there was a hotel in town.  Was four flights up to our room, but hey, who's counting.  It was a bed.           Morris and I had some of the best tacos of the trip down the street at a place called "Taco Brown".  I guess a guy named Brown owned it.  Dave stayed outside and had a can of pork and beans. Liz: DAY 8 (Friday, Dec. 28, 2001)  Starting the second week of the trip.  Hope the border crossing went smoothly.  It will take time to stop and pass through each of the CUSTOMS check points.  Know these fellows had rather be riding !!!  The time taken for each of these stops, of course, will determine how much riding time they'll have & how far along they'll get. According to the report from www.weather.com, Guatemala City, Guatemala was expecting showers today.  Think they had light showers.  Maybe our boys will get ahead of possible thunder storms moving into the area tomorrow. I went to the AAA in Asheville today and picked up a road map of Central America -- one like Jim & Dave each have with them.  Wanted to have it here so I can get an idea of their travels.  (Will make any corrections when we hear from them again.) Jim: DAY 8 (Friday, Dec. 28, 2001)           Got  "on the road again" and the race started all over.  Later, Dave and Morris were stopped at a restaurant on the side of the road. When I caught up, I pulled over and joined them for breakfast -- Carne Asada and Casadias (sp.?).           Later on down the road, I caught up yet again and was told not to even get off my bike. This flew all over me and I just took off on my own, figuring I was in reality riding on my own anyway and it was safer not trying to keep up with them. They never got a sniff of my rear until I got delayed at a border crossing in Costa Rica (5 countries later).           If you like thrill rides, you've got to try Hwy 190 from Oaxaca to Tehuantepec. It's like 170 kilometers of Deal's Gap -- dodging taxis, tractor trailers and very aggressive Mexicans in junkers. Gets your heart beating for sure.  Exhilarating, but at the same time, a little daunting.           The scenery there was breathtaking, very rugged mountains with cactus, rocks and brush.  Makes you have a lot of respect for the people who settled there.  They had to be tough as a lighter knot, or running from the law.  I would love to spend some time there with a 4x5 view camera. Anyone who knows my past history would find that a strange statment indeed.           Ran into a traffic jam of tremendous proportions today. Traffic was stopped dead in the highway with people walking around in the HOT sun.  I didn't figure on waiting, so I began to weave my way to the front -- curious, as well as impatient.  The halted cars and trucks were about 4 kilometers long and 2/3rds of the way down was a line of large motor homes, one with a couple sitting beside it in lawn chairs. They looked American, so I ask them what was going on.  They spoke English and told me that there had been an election in the next town down the road and the guy who was declared the winner got less votes than his opponent.  This had highly pissed off the townspeople.  The accepted way of protesting around here was to block all traffic on the main highway. The road was MAYBE going to open back up at 6:00pm.  As it was only 1:00pm, I was not crazy about waiting around in the hot sun for 5 hours.  I thanked them for the info and rode on to the front of the line and was stopped by boulders, logs and brush piled on a bridge over a creek.  A tractor trailer was turned across the road on the other side of the bridge, so there was no way a car could cross.           I attracted a large group of Mexican men and boys (25 or so) that wanted to look at the moto. Showed them on my map -- where I had come from and where I was headed.  One who could speak some broken English told me, "Et ess posseble for jew to cross."  I told him that I did not want to piss off the already mad looking crowd of men on the other side of the bridge. He really didn't understand, so I made a shooting motion with my index finger and thumb and said, "Pow, pow."  He said something in Spanish and the whole crowd died laughing.  This made them my buddies and two of them motioned for me to follow them.  They moved the logs and brush and rolled the boulders aside so I could angle across the bridge and around the nose of the truck.  None of the protesters said a thing, so I said, "ADIOS," and hauled ass down the road.           Heard later that Dave tried to cross and they came after him with a stick.  I can understand that!! Dave has a unique way of pissing people off.  He and Morris had to ford the 3' deep creek.           Had some good roads from around Juchitan to Huxtila where I settled for the night.  A good stretch of the way was an "AUTO PISTA", a toll road (the tolls are high as hell, but it sure beats the "LIBRE", free roads).  While on the auto pista, running at 70mph, a buzzard flew into me. He hit the fairing head on, made a hell of a whack, and also hit my left calf on the way past -- stung!!!  I figured I would find blood and cracked paint on the fairing and a mess on my leg.  I looked later and could find no evidence of our encounter.  If he ain't a dead buzzard, he's sure got a hell of a headache!!!           The motel in Huxtila is of the hot sheet variety, new and very clean.  It's a place where Mexican men bring their mistresses for fun and relaxation.  You drive through a curtain and into a garage where a curtain or door is closed behind you and no one can tell you are there.  Neat, huh?           An eventful and satisfying, but tiring day. Liz: DAY 9 (Saturday, Dec. 29, 2001) Ruth got a short call from Dave just after noon today; he was paying some guy for the minutes.  Said he & Morris got separated from Jim again.   Something about an oil change... not sure of the details.  Dave & Morris ran into a "transportation strike" at one of the border crossings.  Couldn't cross the bridge.  When Dave tried, someone came after him with a stick!  Before he was hurt... someone explained that the only way to get across the border was to ford the river.  They did it -- through water that was about three feet deep.  Later in the day, Dave & Morris described Jim & his bike to some folks who thought that Jim had already passed by, so he's possibly ahead of them.  Wishing and hoping... these fellows will all get back together again -- SOON!!! Dave and Morris were expecting to stop somewhere in El Salvador tonight.   Got some photos from Jim in this afternoon's mail!  Added them in where they seemed to fit.   Scroll back up to DAY 1 thru DAY 4 to find them. Have received a few messages on the site's GUEST BOOK and thru e-mails and phone calls from several of the TWO DOGS and other friends since this trip began.  Good to hear from you all.  Thanks to everyone for your support for Jim, Dave and Morris on their trip and for me.  It really means a lot!  -- UPDATE --  Gator will have a hernia operation next week.  (We have you in our prayers, Gator.  Please follow the doctor's orders afterward and have a smooth and quick recovery!!) Jim: DAY 9 (Saturday, Dec. 29, 2001)           Headed down MEX 200 to Tapachula and on to Ciudad Hidalgo and the border crossing into Guatemala.           The Mexico side exit, or "salida" was not bad, but the Guatemala entrance side, or "entrada" was a pain in the ass.  Little did I know what awaited me further down the line!!           Made it!!  In Guatemala and amazed by the highly painted busses and the amount of black smoke they belch.  All the busses are painted in wild colors and are named.  One that impressed me was "ESMARELDA".  The paint included the windshield, all but a 6"or 8" horizontal strip, like a tank driver's slit.  Their air horns must have been taken off of boats -- loud just don't cover it.  If you do not move out of their way they will get on the horn and it will blow you off the road!!!!!           Fields of sugar cane and bananas, and smoke, and potholes, and smoke, and potholes -- pretty country when you could see it.  I don't think I have ever been so dirty after a bike ride.           The Guatemala / El Salvador border was a nightmare!!! The officals and the kids that are there to        "help" you through the mess are crooks just waiting on a gringo who does not speak Spanish.  I got screwed at every border except Mex/US and Panama/Costa Rica.  My own fault I guess.  Should have taken some courses in Spanish.           Crossed into El Salvador and really found out what potholes were all about, I thought.  Roads were pretty good except for them.  Got through the mountains and when the roads got a little better, I upped the speed some-- wrong thing to do.  I hit a pothole as big as a child's wading pool and went into a high speed wobble.  Was busy as hell for the next 10 seconds -- scared the shit outta me.           Was near 8:00pm (It's really dumb to ride after dark in Central America), so I took the first motel/hotel I saw.  Boy, what a mistake.  Had a bar with loud music and a swimming pool full of screaming kids, an 8'x10' room with a cold water shower and a floor fan that did not work.  Turned out that neither the shower nor sink had any water.  Thought the room could not get any worse.  It did, when someone rented the room next door.  He evidently didn't think the Spanish music from the bar was loud enough, so he backed his car up to the room and turned on his radio full blast.  I just put in my earplugs and pretended like I was at a motorcycle rally.           Big nite at the HUMP MOTEL and all the humpees brought their children.           Got up the next morning and was covered up in bedbug bites -- at least a hundred or so -- ugh!!!!!!!!! Liz: DAY 10 (Sunday, Dec. 30, 2001) Definitely a full moon day... I had a rough morning - worried about Jim traveling on his own.  Got an e-mail from him (late morning) from San Miguel, El Salvador.  So good to hear from Jim!  Relieved a bit!  Apparently, he & Dave weren't agreeing on things yesterday, so Jim took off by himself.  (I still hope they meet back up and get back together.)  Jim said he's planning to make it to Panama, though he's riding "in pretty much constant pain."  (He was hurting before he left.  Probably needs the same surgery as Gator!)  Said he'd find a phone & call me if he gets in real trouble.  He's got lots to share, as he is recording every day.  Spent the night last night in a HOT SHEET motel.  Weather's hot! Jim plans to cross through Honduras and head on into Nicaragua today.  Jim just called (7:15 p.m., EST) from Choluteca, Honduras.  Didn't get as far as he'd hoped.  Had good weather with high temps reaching 95 degrees or better.  Stopped for the night at a pretty good motel.  We were on a three minute pre-paid card call -- had to talk fast!  Traveling the biggest road in the area, the Pan American Highway, but Jim said it is poor with lots of bad potholes.  Stopped around dark, as he didn't want to travel at night.    Melena, Dave's daughter, called around 7:30.  Dave just called home, too.  Another paying-by-the-minutes call!  He and Morris were held up for a few minutes at the border crossing this afternoon -- no problems, though... just a time consuming check.  They made it across, into Honduras, and stopped for the night.  The folks at this last crossing told Dave & Morris that Jim had already come through -- they're probably only 90 or so miles behind Jim at this point. Jim: DAY 10 (Sunday, Dec. 30, 2001)           Heading to the Honduras border when I ran up on a filling station that was clean and comfortable. Had a USA style hot dog and a cold coke, all while sitting at a clean table in a air conditioned place. To say I was surprised was an understatement.           The border crossing turned out to be a hot (high 90's), time consuming (4-5 hours), money consuming (I ain't saying), ordeal(screwing).           I just thought I had seen some bad roads.  Honduras is a real shithole. The main highways here are 35mph roads at best. You cannot let your concentration slip for a second. Morris said later that He was standing up on his pegs swerving from one side of the road to the other trying to miss the potholes!!!!!!           Stopped at the only motel in this part of Honduras. It's on the "RIO CHOLUTECA"(river) by a torn up road and bridge.  Damn good motel -- lush plantings and a very good restaurant and bar, The complete opposite of everything else inthe area.  $60.00 a night (US).  High, but it was the only one.  The ceiling was made of Honduran mahogany and was wildly grained. Beautiful.           The maid service did my laundry. Nice.           Coming into the town of Nacome, Honduras there was a sign for Hwy. CA1 to the right.  Made the turn and 100 yards down the road was a dirt berm about three feet high, all the way across the road with kids playing on it -- no way for my road bike to cross.  Went back and continued straight and came to an intersection with some cops sitting around.  I pointed to my right and asked, "Choluteca?" They all pointed right and said "Si".  Took off and saw where the bypass road came back in to the highway.  Evidently, the citizens of the town of Nacome did not take kindly to bypassing their town center and took it upon themselves to remedy the situation -- and to hell with the state.  I think they may be on to something!!           Met two guys on KLR Kawasakis at the border today -- Frank Tabor and his buddy, Dale.  They are headed for TIERRA DEL FUEGO, as far south as you can go in South America.  Good luck to them.           60 klicks to the Nicaragua border.  Should be there early morning. Liz: DAY 11 (Monday, Dec. 31, 2001)  Let's celebrate safely this New Year's Eve!! Jim sent e-mail this morning while he was waiting for his clothes to get dry.  Though promised at 8:00am (Central Time), he got,"Not ready, wait please." He was still there at 8:30.  Wants to make the 60 mile drive to the border crossing into Nicaragua as early as he can.  Expecting possible delays there.  Will send another e-mail as soon as he can get to a big town with internet services. Talked to Ruth again this morning.  She told me that Dave wants to get through Nicaragua today.  He and Morris have about 150kilometers to the Nicaraguan border crossing, then they'll have about a 300-350k ride to the border into Costa Rica.  Dave wants to spend some time New Year's Day (tomorrow) with some folks he & Ruth know in Costa Rica -- not sure of the town.  He & Morris will have to make good time on the road and at the borders.  No word from the fellows this evening.  I'm hoping they are in some city where they can enjoy a Latin American New Year's celebration - the people, fireworks, and all! Jim: DAY 11 (Monday,Dec. 31, 2001)           The border crossing into Nicragua was --- I DON'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT IT ---           Managua was a big town sitting on a huge lake, "Lago de Managua" and had good roads and good road signs.  Slipped through the town like shit through a goose.           [At this point I am almost at sensory overload with all the sights and impressions, so you will have to forgive me for not relating more.  I will, as the memories come back.]           Stopped for the night in Jinotepe at a whambam motel -- much nicer than the bedbug palace.  It had a  TV, air conditioner and water.  For once, I did the sensible thing and stopped before dark.Had a sealed plastic bag on the nightstand.  In it was a Lufa scrubber and a "Black Cat" rubber that had "made in Eufala, Alabama" on it.  A rubber and a scrubber.  Ain't that a hoot.           Cooled my hot coke by putting it in the cold exaust of the AC. Don't laugh, it works!!!!           Got to brag on the roads throughout Nicaragua.  They were very good.  Must have an aggressive road department.           It was New Years Eve and I was too tired to do anything about it.  Heard some fireworks, but by 12:00 I'd be deep in the arms of Morpheus. Liz: DAY12 (Tuesday, Jan. 1, 2002)  Ano Nuevo!  (Happy New Year!)     Awoke to 16 degrees here in NC this morning.  Glad the temps are nice and warm (for now) for our travelers.  No word today.  Nada.  Do hope they had a pleasant January 1. Jim: DAY 12 (Tuesday, Jan. 1,2002)           Headed on down Hwy. 2 to Penas Blancas, the border town with Costa Rica . Made it to the border before they opened for the day and had to wait around for an hour and a half or so.  They finally arrived and opened. While I was standing in line, I happened to turn around and there was Dave. He hadn't said a word.  First time I had seen him and Morris in 5 countries.           Met a nice young couple at the border crossing. The girl was from Chapel Hill, NC and they were doing a walking tour of Central America -- a little more ambitious treck than I care to tackle. She saw my tag and hollered, "Hey, North Carolina!"  We swapped info and wished each other good luck.           I waited aound for Morris and Dave to finish up the paper work and while they were putting on their helmets, I headed down the road slowly, waiting for them to catch up.  They blew past me like I was backing up.  Well, it wasn't my day for a race, so I just ambled along.  Caught a fleeting glimpse of Dave standing in front of a Burger King in Liberia, Costa Rica.  Only traffic light in 400 miles.  Since I was already past and was not hungry, I kept on riding, never knowing that Morris' front hub was giving trouble.  Had to have had something to do with the terrible roads we had been over.           Made it through San Jose and over the "CERRO DE LA MUERTE", which translates as " THE MOUNTAIN OF DEATH", 11345' elevation.   It was spectacular - the absolute best scenery yet; the highlight of the trip. The ride over the mountain was worth the entire trip. I can't say enough about it.  I don't have the words to describe it as it deserves.  It was spooky at times -- with the clouds, the outside lane that had collapsed (and was somewhere off down the mountainside), the inside lane landslides, and the lack of oxygen on the top.  I was literally breathless and spellbound by its beauty.  The best part was that I got to see it twice -- going and coming back!!!           Found a very nice motel in a town outside of San Isidro -- Perez Zeledon, the Hotel Del Sur.  They let me park my moto under the front canopy, inside the locked and guarded gates. A very nice restaurant was connected to the hotel.  I had a poolside table and one of the best dinners of the whole trip. (Liked it so well that I had the same thing on my return trip --Cosada con pesca y limon (I think), -- fried fish, fried bananas, rice, black beans, a salad and a good local beer (burp). The Costa Rican lemons are deep, dark green with an inside that looks like an orange, but it tastes like a cross between a lemon, a lime and an orange.  They are great!!!!!           Met a nice guy there, Peter Trost, and his wife.  He is a teacher of gifted students at the German School in San Jose.  He helped me order supper and we visited for a while.   Interesting fellow.           Had a great night's sleep and an early start toward Panama. Liz: DAY 13 (Wednesday, Jan. 2, 2002) Dave called home tonight; Melena & Ruth called to relay the lastest news.  Dave said that the road was SO bad in Nicaragua that youngsters, 9-10 years old, were filling the potholes with manure, dirt... and asking the travelers for money in return for their efforts.  Because of some official at one of the borders pulling a "slick one", Dave & Morris had to sleep on concrete slabs at the crossing while waiting to get through.  Also, had one night in one of the "whoretels" where they had to share a bed in a room with mirrors on the ceiling and the walls.  When awakened, at around 4:30 a.m. by the moans & groans in the neighboring room, they decided to hit the road early.  Due to the bad roads, Dave has bent something on his bike and Morris' tire is wobbling.  Will try to get repairs done tomorrow.  Crossed paths with Jim at one of the borders, but later Jim continued on ahead of them.  Morris got a speeding ticket that amounted to about $35.00 (US) for going 90-95k/?mph.  Don't know how Dave got away with no ticket, as he was keeping up with Morris.  No news from Jim.   Sure would like to hear from him.  All three of our riders have made it into Coasta Rica.  They need to appreciate and enjoy the wonderful weather they're having.                                                       Here's a map showing the road through Costa Rica and into Panama: -- Having our first snowfall of the season tonight in north GA & western NC.  Melena said there's at least an inch of snow on the ground in Clayton.  It's moved up to Franklin, too -- falling pretty good tonight.  It's beautiful!  Our low was at 18 degrees this morning, with the high reaching only 31.  Just hope this winter weather pattern changes for the better in a few weeks when Jim, Dave and Morris head back home. When the snow got heavier tonight, some fellows ran a truck in the ditch in front of Dave & Ruth's house.  Melena got a chain and she & her brother helped pull the truck out.  Is the full moon lingering behind these snow clouds? Jim: DAY 13 (Wednesday, Jan. 2, 2002)           Neat ride through Panama -- sugar cane, bananas and best of all were the pineapple fields. When I hit the miles of  fields the smell was almost overpowering, like you were inside a ripe pineapple. Made my mouth water.  Had to stop and take a few pix.  Views were great.           Made it into Panama City right at nightfall.  Got off at the wrong exit and wound up in Old Town Panama City.  It was raining and the streets were brick pavers(with a raised middle and street car tracks), slick as eel shit and very narrow.  People were thick and no one could speak any English to tell me how the hell to get out of there -- or to a hotel.  Finally found a guy that could speak some English and he told me how to negotiate the one way streets and get back to New Town.  Hired a taxi for $3 US to lead me to a hotel. Was $22.00 US a night and very clean and secure.  I could not find it again if my life depended on it. Liz: DAY 14 (Thursday, Jan. 3, 2002) Please take time to read message in the Guest Book, here on the web site today, left by David, from Clayton (known to all of us as Dave, or Deputy Dog).  He & Morris had one lay over in Liberia, Costa Rica (check Dave's spelling) and are having to lay over for a second day in San Jose, Costa Rica today.  Morris is still having trouble with his front wheel bearings -- maybe he can get them fixed or replaced. Jim should have crossed the border into Panama, by now.  If so, he's back in the Eastern Time Zone... oh, but so far from home!  Looks to be 200+ miles between most of the major cities on the lone Panama road.  Hope gas, food and lodging are readily available.  Who knows where or when Jim will be able to find an internet connection?                 Here's the L-O-N-E road through Panama (black & white dotted lines are gravel roads):   Dave called Ruth tonight from San Jose, Costa Rica.  Morris' brother, Mike, helped line things up for Morris' wheel repair.  Parts are being shipped and should get to San Jose this coming Monday.  Dave and Morris will stay at the same motel 'til they get the bike fixed.  Said there are places in the San Jose area they can check out in the meantime. This unexpected delay has changed their plans.  Will probably turn toward home once Morris' bike is running okay and take their time coming back to GA.  Haven't heard from Jim since his New Year's Eve a.m. e-mail.  Will let you know how he's doing and where he is as soon as I hear!!!! Melena talked to Gator today.  His surgery has been postponed 'til next week. Jim: DAY 14 (Thursday, Jan. 3, 2002)           Paid a cabbie to lead me out of Panama City to the road to Juan Diaz and Hwy 1.           Finally on the last road south.  Darien, here I come.  Been expecting Dave and Morris to come blasting by me at any time.  Went through Tocumen, Chepo and Canitas to a large steel bridge and a shack that seemed to be a bus stop of some sort.  Was stopped by a federal policeman and questioned as to what I was doing there.  I satisfied his curiosity and spotted some teenagers that looked out of place.  Asked if anyone could speak English and about a dozen spoke up at the same time.  They were missionary kids from all over the US.  Their group leader, a guy in his 30's came over and I told him I was trying to make it to the Darien. ------ He told me to relax, I WAS THERE. This was the Darien.  He took my picture in front of the bus that was headed back the way I had come.  It was the only sign that said Darien anywhere.  Rode across the bridge to where the pavement stops and the dirt begins.  Took a few pictures by the monument and crossed back over to ask the feaseability of continuing on down the dirt road to where it turned into a pig trail.  Was told, in no uncertain terms, NOT to try it on my bike. Said the road quickly turned to two ruts and was quite rough. Said it was going to rain that afternoon and I would not get back out.  Being of sound mind(I think), I opted not to try it.                   " I  MADE IT" Now, I gotta get back home.           Something I feel compeled to add is the fact that the leader of the group of church kids told me as I was leaving the Darien, that they would pray for me.   I felt a presence all the way home.           Had a good ride back toward Panama City and stopped in the city at a bank to turn some of my worthless travelers checks into real money. Was more difficult than I thought it would be. I had to pull out every piece of identification I had - passport, Interamerican drivers license, NC drivers license, birth certificate, and visa card. Still would not cash but $250.00 worth. Think it may have been the way I looked after 15 days on the road?????? Nah. Could be the reason, though, that I was not the epitome of sartorial splendor and probably did not smell like a bed of roses.  Since Panama uses the US dollar, I got good old US cash.           Found my way to the "Bridge of the Americas" that separates the Harbor of Balboa from the Bay of Panama. Stopped on the northern side at a pull off for a photo opp, even though it was raining like pouring piss out of a boot. The place was deserted. I took a few pix of my moto with the Panama Canal and the Miraflores Locks in the background. Wouldn't you know it, my camera picked that time to screw up!! I came away with one poor picture.           Beat a hasty trail back to just outside the town of Penonome, Panama